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Roof shingles blown off by the wind: What to do within 48 hours

When shingles are blown off by the wind, the priority isn’t to buy another package of shingles—it’s to cover the exposed area before the next rain and document the damage for insurance purposes. A roof missing a few shingles leaves the decking and underlayment exposed, and that’s where water leaks begin.

Key Points

  • In Quebec, winds are considered strong when they reach sustained winds of 60 km/h for at least one hour or gusts of 90 km/h : even well below this threshold, loose shingles can already be blown off.
  • The Building Code requires at least 4 nails or staples per 1-meter shingle, installed 25 to 40 mm from the side edges and at least 12 mm above the notches. Installation that does not adhere to these dimensions is the leading cause of torn shingles.
  • A bare area must be protected within 24 to 48 hours ; otherwise, the damage will spread from the shingles to the sheathing, then to the insulation and the ceiling.
  • Take photos of the roof, the ground, and any shingles you find before cleaning anything : without evidence of the condition, an insurance claim becomes a matter of opinion.
  • A targeted repair often solves the problem, but three instances of detachment over the course of a few seasons indicate a widespread fastening defect, so replacement is necessary.

 

Shingles torn off by the wind, exposing the underlayment on a roof

Shingles torn off the roof edge after a bout of high winds: the exposed underlayment is only a temporary protection.

What the Wind Actually Does to an Asphalt Shingle Roof

The wind does not tear off the shingles by pulling them upward uniformly. It creates a low-pressure area on the upper surface of the roof, especially at the eaves and ridge, and this low-pressure area lifts the skirt of the shingle. Once the skirt is loose, each subsequent gust acts on the shingle like a lever until the fasteners break.

That is why wind damage is almost always concentrated on the outer edges: side eaves, the ridge, hip lines, and around skylights. The center of a roof slope is rarely the starting point. If you notice missing shingles right in the middle of a roof slope, it’s more likely that there’s a problem with the fasteners or that the material has reached the end of its useful life than that it was simply caused by a storm.

Two factors exacerbate the effect of wind in our climate. First, the cold: in cool weather, the strip of mastic that seals the rows together loses its flexibility and adheres less well. Second, in winter, when a layer of ice along the edge prevents water from draining and causes the shingles to be pushed upward. Episodes of high winds from November through March often combine both of these factors.

The First 5 Steps to Take After a Storm

Stay on the ground. The vast majority of accidents involving damaged roofs occur when people climb onto a wet or icy roof without planning to.

  1. Walk around the house at ground level and look for fallen shingles, debris in the gutters, and pieces of metal flashing.
  2. Take photos of everything, including the undamaged areas, in a continuous, time-stamped sequence.
  3. Inspect the interior : ceilings, shared attic walls, and around recessed light fixtures. A small ring is the best indicator of an active leak.
  4. Keep the water inside using buckets, and move anything that could get damaged—without drilling a hole in a domed ceiling yourself.
  5. Call a certified contractor for temporary weather protection, followed by a thorough inspection once the roof is dry.

 

A properly installed tarp is a temporary measure, not a permanent repair. It must be secured to wooden furring strips, not simply weighted down with concrete blocks; otherwise, the next gust of wind will blow it away, taking a few more shingles with it.

Signs of hidden damage that can’t be seen from below

After strong winds, a roof may appear intact but still be compromised.

Signs to watch for:

  • Some asphalt granules that have accumulated at the base of the downspouts—a sign that the surface of the shingle has been pitted by wind and debris.
  • Shingles that are warped or bulging : the fasteners are still holding, but the sealant strip is broken.
  • Any visible or protruding nails—each of which becomes a point of water entry.
  • Flashings or counter-flashings set apart from the masonry around a chimney.
  • A musty smell or compressed insulation in the attic—often the first noticeable sign.

 

A visual inspection from the attic using a flashlight, conducted in broad daylight, reveals a great deal: any point of light visible through the bridging is an actual hole.

What the Code Says About Securing Shingles

Section Section 9.26 of the Building Code regulates asphalt shingle roofing, and its requirements account for most cases of premature failure. The issues we most frequently encounter during our post-storm inspections are:

  • At least 4 nails or staples for a 1-meter shingle, and 6 staples if the crown is 11 mm wide.
  • Brackets mounted between 25 and 40 mm from the side edges and at least 12 mm above the notches.
  • Vertical overlap of at least 50 mm between rows.
  • Sealant pellets with a 25 mm in diameter or less to hold the skirts in place.
  • At the ridge and hip lines: an overlap of at least 150 mm and an overlap of at least 100 mm on each side.
  • On gentle slopes, less than 1:3, the coverage increases to 3 layers with a starting strip of at least 200 mm applied with mastic.

 

When a roof loses shingles every time the wind blows, it’s almost always due to one of these issues: nails driven too high, in the wrong area, or in insufficient numbers. This is an installation problem, not a material problem, and it can be fixed.

Specifications for Fastening Asphalt Shingles

National Building Code Requirements, Section 9.26 (Roofing)

Element Requirement
Nails or staples per 1-meter shingle At least 4
11-mm ring staples 6
Distance from the gable ends 25 to 40 mm
Height above the cutouts At least 12 mm
Vertical overlap between rows At least 50 mm
Sealant pad to secure the flap 25 mm maximum
Overlap at the ridge and hip lines At least 150 mm
Overlap on each side of the ridge At least 100 mm
Slope less than 1:3 3 layers

Code-specified nailing dimensions: this is what determines the wind resistance of a shingle roof.

Targeted Roof Repair or Replacement

The right decision depends on three factors: the age of the roofing material, the extent of the affected area, and the cause of the damage.

A targeted repair This is appropriate when the roof is less than 12 to 15 years old, the damaged area is limited to a small section, and the rest of the shingles are flexible and securely adhered. Replace the missing shingles, reattach the fasteners, and reseal the adjacent rows.

A replacement becomes the sensible solution when shingles snap cleanly when lifted, when multiple slopes are affected, or when the underlayment has become soft. Repairing a roof that has reached the end of its life costs twice as much: once for the patch, and a second time for replacement a few seasons later.

A word about materials: A sheet metal roof withstands strong winds better than a shingle roof, but only if the screws and seams are installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. On a flat roof, the issue of wind resistance shifts to the edges and the perimeter fastening of the membrane.

Insurance: Document Before Repairing

Wind damage is generally covered by a home insurance policy, unlike normal wear and tear. The difference between an accepted and a denied claim often comes down to the quality of the claim file.

So, before the work begins, put together a series of time-stamped photos, the date and time of the wind event, a record of the day’s weather conditions, the contractor’s written inspection report, and invoices for temporary shelter. Keep any torn-off shingles that you have found.

Your basic rights regarding statutory warranties and construction contracts are governed by the Office of Consumer Protection, and the contractor’s status should be verified with the Régie du bâtiment du Québec before signing. A A free, written quote, detailing quantities and materials, remains your best protection.

A roofer inspecting the shingle fasteners at the edge of the roof

Inspecting the fasteners along the edge: the step that distinguishes a lasting repair from a temporary fix.

Reduce the Risk Before the Next Storm

Measures that make a measurable difference, listed in order of effectiveness:

  • An inspection in the spring and fall, including tightening the fasteners along the eaves and at the ridge.
  • Cleaning the gutters before it freezes, to prevent ice from prying up the bottom shingles.
  • Pruning branches that overhang the roof.
  • Checking the attic ventilation: An overheated attic can damage the shingles and weaken the caulk.
  • Immediately repair any warped shingles you find, before they become a foothold for the wind.

 

For a post-storm assessment, please visit our page on repairing asphalt shingle roofs, the list of 10 signs that a roof repair is needed, and our guide on improper installation of asphalt shingles or contact us directly via the contact page.

Frequently Asked Questions About Wind-Damaged Shingles

At what wind speed do roof shingles start to blow away?

There is no single threshold. A roof installed according to code can withstand, without damage, the high winds defined by the Government of Quebec—namely, sustained winds of 60 km/h or gusts of 90 km/h. Conversely, a roof where the nails were driven in too high can lose shingles in winds of less than 50 km/h.

Can I replace a loose shingle myself?

Technically, yes—on an accessible, dry roof with a gentle slope. In practice, properly bonding adjacent rows and adhering to the nailing specifications make the difference between a lasting repair and a leak that’s merely postponed for six months. And improper installation can sometimes void the manufacturer’s warranty.

How long can I wait before getting it repaired?

Consider 24 to 48 hours as a reasonable timeframe for temporary protection, and a few days for a permanent repair. The underlayment is a temporary protection, not a cover.

How can you tell if the bypass has been affected?

A sound roof deck sounds solid and does not flex underfoot. From the attic, look for dark spots, bulging panels, or visible daylight. Any soft areas must be replaced before installing new shingles; otherwise, the fasteners will not hold.

Is a one-time repair visible on the roof?

A little, yes: new shingles have a brighter color than older ones that have been exposed to the sun for years. The difference fades within one or two seasons. On a highly visible facade, it’s sometimes preferable to replace an entire side of the roof to ensure uniformity.

 

Sources: Government of Quebec, High Winds; Quebec Building Authority, Construction Sector; Building Act (RLRQ, c. B-1.1); Office of Consumer Protection, warranties. Installation Requirements: National Building Code, Section 9.26—Roofing.